The first rule of flying by the seat of your pants is to have pants to fly from the seat of. Our original plan of sauntering from Paris to Barcelona and then onto parts south and east (chasing warmer temperatures) was immediately short-circuited by the total lack of available seats for Eurail pass holders. In past Eurail trips, either with myself traveling solo or together with Carol we had used the passes with complete flexibility of itineraries several  times earlier – “earlier” encompassing previous years as well as Covid. Further research is needed to determine why things have changed rather dramatically. Fortunately,  this blog does not indulge in research or fact checking of any kind, so we’ll plow straight ahead with our story for today.

   Which has Carol and I huddled with a French rail agent, who has just shown us the screen that confirms  only full fare seats to Barcelona are available for the coming week. We’d been told that the night before, but weren’t ready to believe it, based on our past experiences. Really, at about this very same time in 2018, I had breezed into this very same train station, activated my Eurail pass, and sauntered (see what I mean?) onto a high speed train to Barcelona. It was one sweet ride, but things have apparently changed, and not for the better.

Fortunately,  this blog does not indulge in research or fact checking of any kind, so we’ll plow straight ahead with our story for today.

   But we had prepared for getting the same bad news about Barcelona on this day, and we had scoped out a couple of alternate destinations that at least guaranteed a three hour plus train journey. So when the agent reconfirmed that Barcelona remained Terra Unavailable, we were ready.

   “What about Milan? I asked.

   Milan was a go.

   “And Nice perhaps?”

   Nice was a go. And that is how we changed our grand plans from sunny, warmer Spain to “wherever the rail system has seats available for passholders.” And so we’ll be off to Nice in two days and then somewhere else after that. Whether this is all another casualty of Covid, or a concerted effort by the rail lines to steer heavily discounted travelers (Eurail has been an amazing bargain from my perspective) away from the luxury long haul high speed lines to second rate local lines will be a line of inquiry in the coming weeks. (For instance, we could have gotten to Barcelona on our passes, if we’d been willing to spend upwards of 24 hours over five or six transfers, but that is not the kind of European rail travel Carol and I have fallen in love with.

   For sure, if the new normal is to not know where you’re going until the day you are traveling, Carol and I will make the necessary adjustments. Again, all I require is a wood-fired pizza restaurant and a five o’clock Happy Hour bell somewhere or anywhere. And all Carol requires is a choice of cathedrals, castles, chateaux and a famous landmark or two. We’ll certainly find all that easily enough, whether it be in Nice, Milan or wherever there are seats available. .

   We’ll fly directly to Barcelona next time, if that’s what it takes.

   (Spoiler alert: the limited seat thing gets worked out. As Rachel says, watch this space.)